Paddling the BWCA

Imagine getting away from everything.  Away from cell phones, tv, traffic and everything else that screams stress and society.  That is what it is like paddling a canoe through the Boundary Water Canoe Area Wilderness(BWCA) of Northern Minnesota.  There are three main areas that service the BWCA; the western end (Crane Lake and the Echo Trail), the central section (Ely) and the eastern side (The Gunflint and Tofte region).  I spent 3 summers working on Crane Lake, a summer working in Ely and 3 summers working on the Gunflint.  An entirely separate summer I visited the Ely area and went on a canoe trip with my father.  It is safe to say that while I don't know everything, and haven't paddled every lake in the BWCA I have seen a good portion of the region.  While many people may argue which area is the best, I'm of the opinion that they are all wonderful and have something to offer.

The western side has unique challenges.  The entry points along the Echo Trail can be long and often muddy.  Lac La Croix, a massive lake dominates the region and if the winds are calm I prefer paddling the big lake is preferable to portaging, but if the winds come up Lac La Croix turns into a beast.  These challenges keep the crowds down and if solace is what you seek, this area can be golden.

The Ely area is by far the most trafficked section of the BWCA.  A forest ranger once told me that about 80 percent of all the BWCA permits are for an Ely area entry point.  One of my trips into the BWCA was through Moose Lake, the number one most accessed lake in the BWCA.  We went in late June, paddled into Birch Lake and on into the South Arm of Knife Lake.  5 days were spent fishing, swimming paddling and hiking and we didn't see many other canoes.  So, I suppose that if you know where to go, or know someone who offers good advice (canoe outfitting businesses offer great advice) then even in Ely you can find areas that offer seclusion.

The eastern side is divided into two area, the Tofte area is less developed than, in my opinion, any other region of the BWCA.  Outside of Brule lake, there are no really big lakes to conquer.   Wildlife sightings, including moose, occur at a much higher rate than in either Ely or the Lac La Croix area.  The Gunflint side of the BWCA has more up and down terrain than any other area.  This is great for those who love waterfalls and scenic overlooks, but bad for those who hate portaging.  Another downside to the Gunflint is that it seems the portages are longer than many I've done in the Ely area.  But the scenery can't be beat, and I am one who loves a day of hiking so I persevere portaging and love the view from on top.

All in all I love the BWCA, and the feeling of softly gliding across a still lake can't be beat.  Cooking over an open fire, breathing the clean air and knowing that my cell phone won't ring doesn't hurt either.  My favorite memories from the BWCA?  Definitely the times I've been able to see the Aurora Borealis.  I haven't found anything as mesmerizing as watching the Northern Lights dance in the sky!